Back in February, the McBuffer Puffer railtour gave me a unique chance to get to lots of locations in Glasgow which I'd probably not normally have readily visited. I combined the tour with a weekend of bashing local branches, the need to complete this resulting in yesterday's escapades around Whifflet! Today, it was time to do the same for Edinburgh. I've often neglected Edinburgh - finding it expensive, pretentious and predominantly focused on providing a Scottish 'experience' to tourists. Not unlike Bath in my own local area. A couple of stays have cured me of my cynicism to some extent - but it's still very much a second cousin to Glasgow, my first love!
Literally just had to pop downstairs from my hotel to the concourse of Central Station, which was a good thing given my lack of coordination this morning. Queued for coffee at the one outlet on the station open prior to 0600 as I'd discovered back in February. The plan was the first Voyager to Edinburgh - I hadn't noted that this took the route via Shotts non-stop which made for an interesting diversion. Stumbled out of the train feeling rather lacklustre and below par at Haymarket. Blundered up and down stairs and finally found more coffee and the correct platform, positioning myself for a spin around the Fife Circle. The first part of the route over the Forth Bridge was familiar from journeys to Aberdeen over the years, however at Thornton South Junction we peeled off and headed west once again to Glenrothes with Thornton. A fairly hard-to-get link back to the line to Aberdeen heads east here, completing the triangle - but this will have to wait for another visit, forming one of the few bits of Scottish track I need to seek out in future. Good to see well patronised stations from Dunfermline into Edinburgh too.
I suspected that this service would continue to Waverley despite being advertised as Edinburgh, but sure enough as we approached Haymarket we swerved towards the northern side of the station, and terminated at the newly constructed Platform Zero! A bit of bonus track, and a short hop over the bridge to the next move - along the Bathgate branch. Not the most interesting journey out via the rather bleak suburbs, but I'll confess that the town itself looked busy and interesting, as befitting the home of a minor celebrity who is revered by myself and a number of colleagues! Eventually, the line to Bathgate is earmarked to be extended to Airdrie, completing an electrified link between Glasgow and Edinburgh. Good to visit the branch whilst on its current alignment, which will need to change quite drastically here to accommodate the extension.
Through to Waverley on the return, with a brief walk up the confusingly newly designated Platform 1 to get the unit out to Newcraighall. This trip is short, and at this time of day seems to serve almost no passengers. The brief glimmer of hope it presents is the possibilities of reopening further along the alignment to Tweedbank and Galashiels in the future. Disappointingly the current extent of the line terminates enticingly close to but certainly out of sight of Millerhill Yard, and somewhat in the middle of nowhere. Watched the unit shunt out of the station, and back in to take us into the Capital, happily carrying a few more passengers this time.
The last branch left to cover was the longer trip out to North Berwick. I missed the chance to cover this when it was operated by Class 90 locomotives, and now that the Class 322 units have returned I regret this. Noted 90021 tantalisingly close to where its classmates formerly stabled at Waverley when working the North Berwick route! The first part of the trip provided a more sedate run along the first part of the East Coast, calling at a number of smaller stations before branching to the north to approach the small town of North Berwick. Once again, no time to waste before turning around and heading back to Edinburgh, which is something of a shame because I liked the look of the station and would have enjoyed exploring the place a little more. On the return run, noted the junctions for the remaining freight lines in the area, and can't help but hope for some sort of tour in the area soon to cover them.
On arrival, time to shop for provisions before heading for the longest run of the day down to Derby. Found a seat with some difficulty (I'm assured the other unit of the pair assigned to 9O26 has more unreserved seating - I just hopped on the wrong bit) and settled in for the run down the East Coast via Leeds. Once again, excellent service and a fairly speedy run in increasingly fine weather. Amazingly hot on arrival at Derby, and the Central 158 was perhaps predictably boiling and rather full of commuters. The line to Crewe via Uttoxeter - which I haven't travelled for maybe twelve years - hadn't changed much, and despite the sweletering conditions it was good to experience a change of pace on an otherwise rather hurried day.
Checked in at the always comfortable Crewe Arms before heading out for a curry. Spotted Pete Waterman wandering around - two celebrity sightings being far more than my usual quota for a trip! Time for a good long sleep before another early start.
ALR07 Day Three - I'm From Further North Than You
Posted in Railways on Monday 11th June 2007 at 10:59pm
One of the pleasures of doing a First Class rover is that the long moves to the opposite end of the country become much more comfortable. Having resisted the urge to head directly for Scotland earlier in the week, it was necessary today to reposition myself - and get some value for money out of my ticket too. I was uneasy about morning trains from Norwich to Liverpool Street, so I'd selected an after 0900 arrival which I hoped wouldn't be too wedged with commuters. In the event, I woke early and checked out in time for the 0655. All seemed fairly quiet so I found a seat and settled in for a comfortable ride to London with excellent service. It began to fill up around Ipswich, and I noticed a few passengers without seats lurking in the vestibules by departure from Colchester, but it wasn't as bad as I'd imagined. An early arrival at Liverpool Street meant the chance to flag any really stupidly packed Underground trains. However, walked practically straight onto a Metropolitan train which whisked me to Euston Square in relative comfort.
At Euston, purchased coffee and found a spot to relax and watch the world go by. It was an unpleasantly sweaty day and my exertions in crossing London along with the humid atmosphere on the tube made it uncomfortable to do anything but stand still. I think I was still suffering a little with this unshakable cold too. Made myself presentable and did the dash to the platform for the 1038 to Glasgow, being I think almost the first passenger aboard! Secured my seat, and was pleased to find coffee and a newspaper delivered to me before we'd even started moving. I'll confess to settling back to enjoy this trip with little regard to what was passing the windows. I'd done this just over 400 mile outing once before, but certainly not in such style. After a very good breakfast, settled back into enjoying the scenery and watching the railway landscape change from hurrying commuter units to passing Freightliner workings. First stop Preston, going direct via the Trent Valley and a chance to see how TV4 - the project to provide four tracks throughout this busy section of the West Coast Mainline - was progressing. Also zipped through the remodelled Rugby with its new platform looking a little isolated from the station. Once off Preston, into familiar territory and the always exciting twisting route through the Lake District and into Scotland. Arrival over the Clyde was, as always, a special moment for me.
But there was no time to waste in reverie here - back in February I'd left a couple of key bits of track here undone. These were parts of the network where perhaps I'd not quite understood the pattern of service, or where there hadn't been a Sunday service available on the last day of my trip. A brisk walk to Queen Street and onto a service for Falkirk Grahamston via Springburn and Cumbernauld. This covered a fair stretch of line I needed, including the last bit of the knot of routes around Falkirk. Unexpected sunshine appeared somewhere along the way, and I lazily lounged at the station on my brief stopover, entirely missing the chance to photograph 66232 hauling aviation fuel tanks and 66407 on Tesco containers, which appeared unexpectedly within seconds of each other! Retraced my steps to Cumbernauld, and waited for the service to Motherwell to shunt over to our platform. A brief journey, but a chance to see what was in Motherwell Depot at last! At Motherwell, wandered a bit in an attempt to find the platform for the 1756 back to Whifflet with information screens all 'waiting for data'. Luckily, Scotrail had provided a huge gang of revenue protection staff who had nothing to do, and were happy to provide the information in a return for a stare at my 'weird ticket'. Only a small group of us waiting at the eerily quiet platform 4 at Motherwell for the increasingly delayed train, and as the minutes ticked by I thought I might have an extra half-hour to wait at Whifflet. From what I'd seen of the place on my pass through, this wasn't necessarily a pleasant idea. Finally onboard, and on arriving at Whifflet, saw the 156 which would form the next service still lurking in the sidings waiting for our unit to clear the line, so no chance to explore Whifflet and environs this time! Back to Central via Mount Vernon in still strong sunshine. And so all of the passenger track in Greater Glasgow is now inked over in 'Baker' along with much of the red stuff too.
With today's objectives achieved, set about celebration. Checked in at the station hotel, finding myself tucked away in an even more obscure corner of this cavernous building than before. Out into town for the excellent King's Lodge chinese buffet and then a walk to the 13th Note to people-watch and to enjoy a quiet read and a pint. Couldn't resist a quick stop in at the Horseshoe Bar on my walk back to the hotel. Obscenely early start tomorrow meant I couldn't stay out late. Felt better knowing I'd be in Glasgow again at the weekend.
Woke and checked out early - surprising the pleasant possibly-Russian receptionist who appeared to have been working all yesterday and also overnight but remained chirpy nonetheless. Couldn't repay her pleasantries as still largely unable to speak! Off to Darlington station by a much quicker and more direct route than I'd taken yesterday. Walked as fast as I could in the hope that I could kickstart myself and get rid of the grungy feeling which resulting from the ever-present cold and a sleepless night in a stuffy but otherwise comfortable hotel room. Arrived, coughing and spluttering under the grand trainshed and explored the quiet station a little. A few units waiting for Bishop Auckland and Saltburn, but few passengers so early on a Sunday. The guard of a Whitby-bound train asked me if I was "coming along for the ride?". Declined, and said I was for the London train. "But Whitby's a much nicer place!" he said as he flagged his train away laughing. The coffee shop opened and there was time for a quick breakfast before the 08:28 to Kings Cross drew quietly into the station.
Once on board, settled in for the run to Peterborough. Again, glad of the air-conditioning but disappointed not to be able to get a connection to the internet - a service which saved so much time and money on my last trips on GNER. Much of the country seemed to be enveloped in the murky but hot weather which I'd set out in, and a grey mist seemed to be descending as we headed south and east. It felt good to be actually using the Sunday part of a rover ticket for something, and this afternoon promised some of the more substantial sections of new track for the week. An early celebrity sighting of sorts too, as Alan Yentob joined the train at Doncaster, apparently on the way back to London after the International Indian Film Awards weekend. On arriving at Peterborough, a flurry of GBRf locomotives confused me sufficiently for me to miss the number of the Class 91 which had brought us down. A quick curse, and over the bridge to await the Central unit to Norwich. I'd half-dreaded this bit of the trip for ages, as there is something oddly dull about the two-hour stretch of flat nothingness which usually takes place in a jammed, overheating and grubby Central Trains unit which isn't nearly up to the job. Pleased to note instead a surprisingly lightly loaded former-Transpennine Class 158 in fairly good condition! Once past the initial part of journey, made intriguing by Iain Sinclair in 'Edge of the Orision' I settled back with headphones on, and caught up on some missed sleep.
Norwich Thorpe remains a pleasant station to wait at, with a fair amount going on. Time for coffee before the next Great Yarmouth train - which I'd taken care to ensure was going the 'long way around' via Reedham and a bit of new track on the way. Mission accomplished, I turned around with the unit and was surprised to find it going back the same way - which I'd clearly misread in my planning. Nothing lost however, and glad to deal with this bit of track at last, despite having seen nothing of Yarmouth since about 1978 by my reckoning! Arrived back at Norwich with about fifty minutes until the next Sheringham train. Decided to poke my head out of the station doors and saw my hotel just yards away. Wandered over and checked in, meaning I could carry much less luggage to Sheringham with me. Back to the station and onto another 156 for the semi-fast trip up the branch, not calling at some of the minor stops on a Sunday. Made good progress until North Walsham (which still sees some freight it seems) before the line is singled, and things chug along a little less quickly. A swift reversal at Cromer, which seemed fairly busy for a Sunday afternoon, and minutes later we were at our terminus. The sun had arrived out of the mist somewhere along the way, and in the short time we had I managed to pop my head out of the door to see a pleasant and rather busy little town - perhaps one to visit again sometime. Now though it was time to retrace my steps to Norwich and to find a quiet beer and some food.
A quick stroll around Norwich showed, quite frankly, its bad side. The immediate environs of the station are - in fairness like many other places - a mess of cheap takeaways and derelict shops. However a knot of places near the river crossing, such as the Compleat Angler seem fairly reputable and it was here I decided to take refreshment. Given tomorrow's early start I decided to turn in, and to hopefully wake up with a little more vocal ability!
There have been times during the planning of this trip that I've wondered how sustainable these week-long forays into the wild are. After all, following a good few years effort and a great deal of cash, I've covered massive amounts of the British railway network. The stubs and tails that remain are tricky - and I've left them either because they're awkward to get at, or because I've lacked sufficient interest in the past when there have been greater goals to seek out. Alongside this of course is the chase for rare track - diversions and railtours take up more time in an effort to cover the red lines in 'Baker'. So this trip is something of an experiment - mixing the odd here-and-there bits of new line with old haunts done in new, interesting or just rather idiosyncratic or illogical ways.
Equally experimentally, I set out on a Saturday. These trips have always begun on a hopeful Monday morning, the whole network at its peak for me to explore. However this has left the Sunday for the end of the week - with its closures, diversions and relatively poor service. Again I've explored different ways of handling this - going home and then back out as a 'bonus day', or just finding convoluted and unusual ways to get home. This time, I'll finish on a Friday - but not by going home, but all being well on a positioning move for an excursion on Saturday. Its going to be an expensive week which will naturally beg the question 'why?' from many of my acquaintances and colleagues. I've tried to answer that before, and never quite succeeded - certainly at least, not to their satisfaction.
Up early then, still feeling the effects of the two-week long cough and cold which won't seem to go away. Very little voice and a nagging cough which will surely see me chucked out of the quiet carriage! Decided on the first one out of Highbridge for comfort. This allows me to get breakfast and settle into things at Bristol, before the trip kicks off proper. Sleepy ride to Temple Meads, leaving a chance to find a quick bite to eat and coffee. Feeling quite unusual - mainly due to the effects of the cold, and partly the dizzying and at this point, almost daunting idea of nine days of solid rail travel. The 07:29 arrived on time, destination Glasgow - but for me this went only as far as Preston. Could easily have continued a tradition of sorts and gone straight to Scotland, but that was another twist to this trip. Quiet and easy ride in First Class. No at-seat service as it's the weekend, but nice to be comfortable nonetheless. A fairly extended wait at Preston for the short hop to Lancaster. Flagged a Pendolino ride and got the next Barrow-bound 185 instead. Stunning sunshine in Lancashire, as I crossed the platform to the 156 bound for Heysham Port.
The Heysham branch receives a very sparse service, and only continues to exists as a result of the ferry traffic from the Isle of Man. The branch is operated very unusually, as it splits into two parallel single lines at Bare Lane. Both go to Morcambe, but only the southerly of the pair turns south again from the terminus to the port at Heysham. The port itself is much like others I've visited by rail over the years - rather run down and slightly desolate in appeaance. Toyed with a photograph of the unit on the buffer stops, but dissuaded by the security team - who despite appearing extremely young and rather inexperienced, were both ever-present and apparently up for a fight! The Port Authority requested that the train was held as the ferry was late. We only realised it had arrived when an endless stream of motorcyclists started pouring from the earth beside us, where a ramp from the ship reaches ground. A murky and clammy day was developing outside, and Heysham Power Station was surrounded by a threatening haze of steam. Not sorry to leave Heysham.
Back at Lancaster with two minutes to spare before the Manchester-bound 185. Made it to the platform, trying not to gasp and splutter too much in front of the composed and serene crowd of young ladies present. Found a seat in the thankfully well air-conditioned 185 and collapsed for a while. Time for some quick shopping at Piccadilly before boarding another 185 for the trip across the Pennines via Standedge Tunnel. Interesting to find myself seated next to a table of First Keolis' staff on this train and able to listen in on depot gossip. Never did find out what the strange sulphurous smell was in the tunnel however! A swift cross-platform change at York finds me in what is apparently a travelling birthday party. A group of twenty-somethings off to Newcastle to celebrate had started early - and it was hard not to get caught up in the infectious good-humour of these smart and pretty young people - even if as some commented, it's not really the way to behave in First Class.
Arrived at the impressive station at Darlington with only the vaguest idea of which direction to walk to the hotel. Like all towns where the station is a way from the centre, a strange mix of ethnic take-aways and endless barricaded newsagents lined the route. Eventually found myself beside a still river which was rather pungent in the heat. Recognised this from the map, and dodged through the cool green churchyard. The town itself wasn't unpleasant, and a wander later confirmed a mix of old and new buildings with some impressive public open spaces and a fair mix of retail opportunities. There was though, an air of desperation around the place. Saturday nights are probably the same all over England, but here the gangs of screeching girls and brawling blokes seemed more edgy somehow. I turned in early and watched the fun from my hotel window instead.
Lost::MikeGTN
I've had a home on the web for more years than I care to remember, and a few kind souls persuade me it's worth persisting with keeping it updated. This current incarnation of the site is centred around the blog posts which began back in 1999 as 'the daylog' and continued through my travels and tribulations during the following years.
I don't get out and about nearly as much these days, but I do try to record significant events and trips for posterity. You may also have arrived here by following the trail to my former music blog Songs Heard On Fast Trains. That content is preserved here too.
