After a good few years of trundling around the UK, I thought I'd encountered most of the hazards which travellers meet with these days. However, this morning convinced me otherwise. Having stayed in a very convenient hotel mere seconds from Wolverhampton station, I blearily stumbled down to reception ready to catch the early train to Machynlleth. There was no-one at reception but I didn't let this bother me, dropped my keycard into the slot and walked towards the automatic sliding doors. But they didn't. I wandered back to the desk and found a sign suggesting I press the bell for attention. I did. No-one came. So, I dug out the particulars of the hotel and telephoned. The phone chirped loudly behind the desk. Still no answer. With my keycard now out of reach I was trapped in the lobby. The minutes before my train ticked by. Eventually, a rather dishevelled looking chap arrived and unlocked the doors from the outside. He looked rather startled as I cannoned out of the building and launched myself up the stairs to the walkway leading to the station. He shouted an apology, but having no time to vent my frustration I decided not to answer. He let fly a somewhat quieter expletive, but I was now getting into my stride and didn't let it stop me. So began a very strange day on the rails!
Once at the station, there was just time to grab breakfast and a newspaper before the 06:24 arrived. There were a surprising amount of people on board - most of which seemed to be going home from a night out in Birmingham. We made good time in the dark, and I began to relax after my odd start to the morning. Eventually we slipped quietly into a dark and freezing Shrewsbury where we were due to reverse and head for the coast. Spotted one of Network Rail's Class 97s stabled beside us, but decided not to go for a shot as we'd soon be leaving. But we didn't. After what seemed like a very long wait indeed, we were turfed off the train and asked to wait for more information. The incoming service was delayed with our driver on it, so they planned to turn our train back to Birmingham and let us wait. My connection at Machynlleth wasn't particularly tight, but as the expected departure got later and later I realised I had a big problem. Talked it over with a member of staff - he was sure they'd do something for people going up the coast - a taxi maybe? But it wouldn't be them who organised it. They'd wait until we were further into the journey to decide what to do. It might be that given the disruption, the next train in two hours time was the sensible option. Almost quit there and then, but a wander into a dark cold Shrewsbury morning put me off. Back onto the station to get a shot of 97304 before boarding the unit which finally arrived around 35 minutes late.
The guard on board was a little more helpful, and he explained he'd wait until after Caersws to decide what to do. He pointed out though that if it was a taxi it would take some time to get organised, so they might just hold the train. I asked him to Excess me to Aberystwyth and I'd decide what to do as we went along. Settled in to enjoy a quiet run through the hills of central Wales. A lot of snow remained on the hilltops, and there had been a hard frost. Soon at Machynlleth where the depot was shrouded in mist which stayed with us out to Dovey Junction. Here I was amazed to find the unit to Pwllheli waiting for us. Contemplated the leap to do the original plan. However, the train was now well over 25 minutes late and would turn around as soon as it arrived - I didn't have the stomach for a straight six hours of rail travel without break or refreshment. Realised that my last bit of track wasn't going to happen today, so pressed on to Aberystwyth - an unexpected second visit within a year in fact.
Aberystwyth was just getting going as we arrived. People were waiting to head back east on our train when it turned around, and the streets were beginning to get a little busy. Strolled into town, noting the Central Fish Restaurant and the National Milk Bar - two blasts from the very distant past, when I convinced myself that Aberystwyth was in the grip of some sort of authoritarian restaurant-based regime given those names. Took some pictures before getting food and coffee and settling on the chilly and misty seafront - a short curve of black sand with a dilapidated pier and mess of stuccoed hotel fronts. I was calm, comfortable and despite being way off track, strangely enjoying myself. In fact I felt fairly relaxed for the first time in a week or so, no doubt helped by a call to the Customer Services department of the hotel to vent my frustrations! Eventually returned to the station for the 11:30 train back to England. This was a little busier and I amused myself by watching and listening to the odd mixture of passengers. It's easy to forget this is a long train journey in an area where road travel isn't much fun - and there was just a hint of the romance of rail travel around today. As we climbed the easy side of Talerddig the sun finally broke through the mist and warmed the carriage. Possibly the first time I've seen the sun this year, and oddly the atmosphere of the train changed with it. At Welshpool we passed 97304 with a short rake of coaches and 97303. A pleasant wait in the sun before we set off once again towards Shrewsbury and eventually back to Wolverhampton.
As I was back a little before I'd planned to be, had a wander out into the city. It was still the rather rough-edged spot I remembered from previous visits. A match at Molineux added to the crowds, but as they began to disperse a little I found a spot to enjoy a coffee while watching people wandering about. Sent some emails planning future trips, and had a slow wander back to the station for 350125 in to New Street. A bit of a wait here for the Bristol train, which I spent out on the open-air end of the concourse watching trains - something I haven't done at New Street for a long while. Glad to be on board the 17:12 to Bristol and in the warm at last. Snoozed through the dark journey home, which was all on time until the last few frustrating minutes when we got held up behind other local services. Made the unit back to Highbridge without any bother, and was soon heading for home.
So, the last major goal in the Baker atlas remains unconquered! A strange couple of days, which ended a rather odd week in many ways. A lot of uncertainty lurks around the corners at present, so these jaunts become as ever, far more important. There is clearly something about West Wales which stills the disquiet, as my forays to Holyhead over the years have proved. For now though, I'm content to research the curious history of the National Milk Bar chain. I suppose I'm never far from some sort of conspiracy.
The end of this week has seen the world beginning to get back to normal after it ground to a halt during the protracted cold spell. Work had become commonplace once again, and despite some lingering snow on the trip to Nailsea on Thursday, I woke this morning to find a miserable rain falling. I wasn't unhappy, as this at least meant an easy walk to the station. These early in the year trips are always rather odd - nothing has quite got moving yet, and aside from the odd novelty from the December timetable change, it's become a time to visit old haunts and to get out and about despite the cold and the lack of organised events. Just as the year ended I'd booked today's trip - a fairly routine run out to Lincoln, returning via Sheffield. I hadn't been to Lincoln for about fourteen years by my reckoning - and for some reason, that trip was one of the more memorable of my jaunts - staying at a B&B at the top of a steep hill, and discovering the pleasure that a walk through a deserted city centre can be on a Sunday morning before a much diverted trip home. Of course, if things had gone to plan I'd have been here a little before Christmas on a railtour - which inspired this visit once that trip was cancelled.
Today's out and back trip wouldn't have been possible back then without a very rushed itinerary. However, I did of course aim for the early train off Highbridge as usual, and changed for the 07:00 to Birmingham which was thankfully running as planned this week. My journey up was sleepy - and I wasn't sure if this was because I'd been to the pub last night, or whether I was perhaps succumbing to a cold which has been circulating around our office. Dozed my way up to the Midlands, which made the journey fly by. Strained my eyes for the Class 70s which were supposed to be at Stoke Gifford to no avail - perhaps one day soon I'll pass by in daylight! Time for breakfast at New Street, before catching the 08:49 to Nottingham. Surprised to find football fans joining this train, bound for Peterborough. Not too busy however, and I enjoyed a pleasant dash up to Derby, a reversal and then into Nottingham with a good few locos passing during the trip. Lots more football folks at Nottingham and a sizeable Police presence too. Tried my best to look totally uninvolved in things and headed directly to the East Midlands 158 which was waiting to leave for Lincoln. My first trip on one of these much refurbished units was favourable, except for the intense heat on board. Whiled away the rather dull trip over the featureless fens listening to a young mum's talking and storytelling with her daughter. Perhaps one of the high points was the flat crossing of the East Coast Mainline at Newark, which is still a strange and rather worrying idea even now! Soon found myself crossing the High Street in Lincoln at the busy level crossing.
It's fair to say that this wasn't the weather for tourism, and I noted the cathedral at the top of the hill was shrouded in mist as I stepped out into drizzly Lincoln. I didn't remember the first part of the walk, but memories soon began to come back as I turned into the High Street and began to recognise landmarks. Much has changed here, particularly along the river banks, where wide vistas have been cleared and new shopping centres and walkways created. The developments have been completed in a fairly sensitive fashion, and I had a pleasant hour or so wandering in the busy city centre. Eventually retreated south of the level crossing and found the cinema I'd visited during my previous stay was now a J D Wetherspoon pub. A little research done later indicated that it had closed in 1996, and thus not long after my visit. Also noted the impressive St Mark's development. When I last visited, the history of Lincoln's railways hadn't quite sunk in - but this time a memory was sparked and I went hunting for railway relics. Managed to find a fake signal box of modern construction amidst the shops and car parks, albeit with an original BR sign for Lincoln St Marks on it wall. The station building also remained, among the new developments. Decided to head back to the station to get a much needed coffee and to find my next train. Spent a little while at the High Street crossing on my way back, watching the gates close twice in quick succession to let trains pass. Noted the closed High Street signal box too, now empty following the resignalling.
My next train departed from platform 5b at the far extremity of the station. Lincoln Central always strikes me as a sort of overgrown rural station, despite being a fairly respectable size. Found 150140 ticking over and awaiting departure for Adwick via Sheffield. Soon underway, leaving Lincoln behind and spotting the strange cabbage-like plants in the four foot which I'd spotted on a tour which came this way a few years back! This route was a little more interesting, passing thorough the rather forlorn town of Gainsborough before passing under the East Coast Mainline at Retford. Lots of activity still evident in the yards at Worksop too, with the train getting busier as we entered the suburbs of Sheffield. Having found myself here almost accidentally last week, it was strange to be back in Sheffield so soon. Shopped a bit and people-watched on the fine (but still oddly slippery) station concourse before heading to my platform for the 15:54 which was due to take me directly back to Bristol. Another on time arrival, and a quiet and pleasant ride south despite the daylight fading fairly swiftly once we were underway. Read and listened to music while enjoying the journey, feeling a bit sluggish and below par however. Realised I'd probably been right all along about catching a cold!
It was good to have a day with very little concern or excitement, where pretty much everything ran on time and I could just relax and enjoy the ride. Last night I had a fascinating conversation with Mr Solomon about travel, in particular why we both do so much of it and whether the trip is indeed more important than the destination. It almost always seems like it is for me these days.
Having spent the last week pretty much confined either to the house or the office, I was desperate to get out and about today. It had looked pretty unlikely though, not least because the journey from home to the station had deteriorated into a glassy slither along sheets of ice which used to be pavements. However, with Somerset County Council finally agreeing that the bus and pedestrian route to the station was of strategic importance, at least parts of the trip had become a little easier. So, a little earlier than usual I set out for what should be the routine walk I've managed thousands of times before. Starting with a brisk trot up the cleared margin of the road, a quick slippery bit of pavement, then onto the road again as far as the station entrance. Here, the slushy remains were more unpleasant than dangerous, and once into the station there was plenty of fresh snow to walk on. I found myself on the deserted and very cold platform with time to spare. I felt almost elated - after all, I'd escaped at last! For now, I wasn't even going to worry about the return trip when the road might be just a bit busier!
The purpose of today's trip had been a visit to the Great Central Railway for their winter diesel event. However, just now I wasn't going to speculate on how far I'd get or what I'd find when I got there. I was content enough to be thundering along in the dark. The first leg of the trip took me no further than Bristol, but it felt like a journey into the unknown after a week of confinement. It probably wouldn't have been so bad, but after the recent week of enforced quarantine for H1N1, the feelings of cabin fever came on all too quickly. Arrived at Bristol just in time to hear my train being cancelled! Not in this case due to the weather, but because stock was out of place following the problems at Birmingham New Street yesterday when a contractor cut a signalling cable. Checked I was OK on the 07:30 and found coffee, if nothing else because holding the cup kept my hands warm. Soon off on the 07:30, and noted how quiet it was. The weather had clearly taken it's toll on passenger numbers. Relaxed and watched the first hints of dawn in the east as we sped northwards. Soon announced that we'd make a brief detour around the triangle at Gloucester to pass a train up front with 'a problem'. Turned out as we passed that it was in fact 66154 with 6M60 - the Bescot-bound clay tanks. Made a sleepy posting to a mailing list (in which I made lots of silly mistakes in fact!) and returned to enjoying the bright cold morning passing outside.
Arriving later than planned at New Street, I found it just beginning to wake up. Made my way to the platform for the next train where an anxious woman pushing a thoroughly wrapped up child in a pram asked me if I was going towards Leicester. I said I was, and she asked me when I was coming back. I explained that I'd be back today, probably around 5pm - and she looked pleased. She was making a similar journey and was convinced it was all going to go wrong because of the snow or the problems from yesterday. Cautiously reassured her that things had actually run pretty well, but that stuff could always change. She seemed a little brighter - but it got me wondering about how the day would pan out, as the very delayed 170 rolled in for the journey out to Leicester.
After another pleasant journey I found myself damp and cold at Leicester station. No snow yet, but the platform was slippery and I decided that since I'd have to wait for a Loughborough train I'd do so in the warm, settling for more coffee in the buffet. Reluctantly out to wait for the 10:54 which arrived on time, warm and surprisingly quiet. Settled in for the quick run to Loughborough, arriving to find the station quiet and enveloped in snow - but so far, still nothing falling. Wandered out to assess conditions - the car park looked bad, with vehicles doing little pirouettes as they deposited passengers. In the sun, it felt warm and it was nice to be crunching around in fresh snow instead of sliding on ice. Had a test walk towards town, and found it hard going. There was ice under the snow, and the walk was challenging. Slogging across town to the GCR would be tricky - especially as the quickest route didn't really involve the generally clearer main roads as such. Agonised a bit - I'd come for the diesels and it seemed a shame to miss them, but given the way the week had gone it was good just to be out. As I pondered, the sky grew suddenly purple-grey and large flakes of snow began to tumble down on me. I set off back to the station, rebooked for Sheffield and purchased yet another cup of hot, strong coffee...
Noted along the way that the 19:12 was beginning to get very late on it's journey south via York and Leeds. Delays had been affecting a lot of the services heading that way, and this one seemed to have got really entangled. Realised that in fact I'd have a very long wait at Bristol if I stuck to my booked service. Instead popped into Customer Services, politely explained my situation and was soon out sporting two endorsed tickets allowing me to travel on the preceding 18:42 which was on time. Made my way to the platform and settled in to the warm train which arrived just minutes later. It meant a bit of a wait at Bristol, but it was the best option by far. Soon speeding south again, catching up on weeks of podcasts which I'd not had a moment to listen to. At Bristol, I had a little while to wander before the 20:40 arrival - the 19:00 from Paddington in fact, and a train I've used a fair amount lately. Purchased yet more coffee to keep me warm, and pondered over how much today's caffeine insulation had set me back! Onto the HST the moment it arrived, happy to spend it's 15 minute dwell in the warm.
In the event, my walk back from the station went pretty smoothly, and despite feeling cold and tired, and not really achieving what I set out to do, I felt a sense of accomplishment having travelled 450 miles or so despite the weather and it's effects. I had felt that perhaps travelling for fun when others were struggling to get home or to work was a little irresponsible. Looking back though, I think I'd have struggled to face the next bout of grim weather without this trip!
As the final trips of last year were passing by, I began to wonder how to fill the early weeks of 2010. This time of year is always a little tricky as the preserved railway sector snoozes through it's off-season and railtour operators become somewhat risk-averse in planning anything unusual. Last year we had the bonus of lots of interesting changes in the timetable leading to new services, but this time around it's mostly down to me planning some trips to places familiar and perhaps less so to pass the time until things brighten up - both figuratively and meterologically!
But one change which did take place today affected travel in London significantly - the expansion of the Oyster pay as you go scheme to all National Rail stations. Thus the Oyster card is now just as flexible as a Travelcard, and means that travel - particularly to the south and north-east of the city is much, much simpler to do on a whim. So today's mission was to have no plan - to turn up in the capital on a complementary First Great Western ticket and to see where things went. There were of course a fair number of closures dotted around the city given the opportunity a long weekend of closure presents for major engineering. However, there was still enough to be sure of occupying myself. Decided not to take the easy and direct option, but to go for the early train via a change at Weston onto the 06:24. A smooth, drowsy trip east - finding myself woken by the sunshine around Didcot. As the sun rose, it promised to be a clear and cold day in London - probably perfect conditions from my perspective.
My first decision was to head south - primarily because it's south of the river which has always been hardest to get around and which should benefit most from Oyster PAYG being available. Firstly, had to negotiate the closed Circle Line via a change at Earls Court. Into Victoria in time for a coffee and breakfast - though both weren't quite how I'd ordered them. Wondered if this was somehow symbolic and today was going to be complicated and difficult? However, I tapped my Oyster card on the reader and found myself through and safely onboard a very lightly loaded eight-car set bound for Sutton. Due to closure around Crystal Palace this was going via Norbury. Despite the route being fairly well travelled, the bright sunshine on the city rooftops along with a day of wandering ahead made me feel relaxed, content and surprisingly happy. This almost never happens, and was clearly a sign that things wouldn't go to plan! At Sutton, planned to head back via the former-Thameslink route. This meant a brief wait, so wandered into the street and explored a bit before descending once again to the platforms to board a very tired looking 319371 bound for London Bridge via the meander into Wimbledon.
Arrival at the buffers at London Bridge heralded a search for a working toilet at this amazingly poorly-convenienced station! Finally back into the station feeling much better, and after grabbing a snack onto a train bound for East Croydon via Norbury Junction in the hope I could make the 12:10 Milton Keynes train. These services fascinate me with there complicate manoeuvres around Clapham Junction and their use of the lines around Acton and Willesden which have always been of great interest for some reason. Comfortably made the connection, and noted that the unit was surprisingly busy - likely with shoppers bound for Westfield. This was confirmed on arrival at Clapham where large crowds squeezed on, only to disperse again at Shepherds Bush. Relaxed and enjoyed the space for the remainder of the journey, taking the diving route under the West Coast Mainline and surfacing adjacent to Wembley Yard. Not much action here or at Willesden, but interesting move nonetheless. Decided to bail at Harrow and Wealdstone for a connection back to Euston. Also had a chance to look briefly around Wealdstone - a rather uninspiring spot, but happily good coffee was available back in the station. Soon on board a mixed pairing of 350/1 and 350/2 heading non-stop into Euston. Since the sun was still out, decided to make the next leg of the journey on foot, passing the British Library and grand St. Pancras on the way to Kings Cross - itself the subject of an ongoing, but as yet not very visible programme of improvements. The plan was to travel on a local service from the suburban platforms here, again new territory for Oyster. However, the staff here had largely abandoned the scheme, with the ticket gates left open. The advice given to a fellow passenger by a member of First Capital Connect staff was "not to touch out at the other end then" on observing this. Knowing how notoriously vicious I've heard Revenue Protection staff on FCC can be, I thought twice about travelling. However, curiousity overcame concern, and I soon found myself heading north near Finsbury Park, on route to Harringay.
The plan here was to make another foot transfer - from Harringay to Harringay Green Lanes station on the Gospel Oak to Barking line. This made the northern excursion a little more interesting, as otherwise it was a case of covering just part of the two branches out of Kings Cross. Instead I could cut across the north of the city, with some ideas forming about the next move into Fenchurch Street. However, this particular scheme was my undoing - although not at first, as my wander got me to Green Lanes in good time with even a short pause to take a snap of the New River on it's sluggish route into the City. At Green Lanes, I had a brief wait for a near empty 150120 - although as we headed for Barking things got busier. However, our station stops were getting longer and longer, and we were clearly losing time. As we left Wanstead Park it became clearer - there was a major signalling fault and the train would terminate at Woodgrange Park. Moreover it was unclear when services might resume. Trudged up the steps to Romford Road, planning to hit the buses, as the alternative rail service from nearby Manor Park was suspended for the works. However I hadn't bargained on the effect that the closure on the Great Eastern Lines would have, and several buses from Ilford passed by, clearly wedged to full capacity. I sulked in the cold shelter, telling an odd woman that I had no idea how to get Barking easily, and doing my best to help a young lady force her pram onto a heaving Oxford Circus bound 25.
After flagging a procession of 25s and 86s with faces and bodies pressed up against there steamy windows, several arrived at once meaning I could sneak onto a relatively empty 25. Considered my plans as we snaked south towards Stratford. With local rail options largely out of the window, I could bank on a very busy shuttle to Liverpool Street, or I could cover the Jubilee Line - something I need to do at some point. However, in mulling this over I missed the appropriate stop for Stratford bus station. I could of course have hopped off and walked back, but the weather and my innate laziness prevented this. Instead, decided to stay on the 25 as it travelled into the more familiar East End, via Bethnal Green and into Whitechapel. Noted lots of familiar sights as we headed into the sunset, the sky darkening almost by the minute. Not wishing to head into the City or the West End, hopped off outside the depressing hulk of the Royal London Hospital and boarded a following 205 as far as Liverpool Street. After a much needed refreshment break, tried to decide what to do. There were Oyster options from here too, but with the closures and being aware of how tricky getting back to Paddington would be if I didn't get back around to the southern reaches of the Circle, I decided to flag these. Instead, hopped on another 205 heading West and enjoyed a familiar winter bus journey back to Paddington via Moorgate, Angel and Marylebone. I've become attached to this trip during previous closures and tonight was no exception. However, it did mean an earlier arrival than planned at Paddington. Noted a surprising Police presence at the station and decided to lie low upstairs with a Coffee. A wander around later confirmed that a football match was the cause of the concern, and I watched one or two loud but mostly good natured fans get a warning from the BTP on appearing at the top of the underground stairs. Stuck to my planned 19:00 train as I imagined most of the fans would have dispersed by then.
The journey home was strange - a little dull being in the dark again after such a fine day on the rails. The presence of a few straggling fans heading back to Chippenham was mildly diverting at first, but as we slowed to an unexpected halt at Wooton Bassett and failed to budge an inch for the next 40 minutes they became more and more angry and menacing. The Polish train manager though dealt well with the group, and happily nothing major occurred. Some further frustrating delays as we let the 21:13 Voyager pass by at Bedminster, and waited at Weston for a northbound train to clear the single line. The first excursion of the year was a strange mixture - some fine weather and interesting travels - by rail and unexpectedly also by bus - but a strangely muted ending thanks to delays and me brooding on work and future trips as we waited. Perhaps I should resolve to stop worrying and get on with it this year? In any case, it was good to get out and about, and to kick of the year with a varied and interesting dash around London.
I've had a home on the web for more years than I care to remember, and a few kind souls persuade me it's worth persisting with keeping it updated. This current incarnation of the site is centred around the blog posts which began back in 1999 as 'the daylog' and continued through my travels and tribulations during the following years.
I don't get out and about nearly as much these days, but I do try to record significant events and trips for posterity. You may also have arrived here by following the trail to my former music blog Songs Heard On Fast Trains. That content is preserved here too.