I posted recently about the ability of the GBRf-operated diagram to produce unexpected treats, with the frustrating turn of events that saw 66721 out on a day I just didn't have the flexibility to get to the train. However, this morning, rather unexpectedly the other locomotive which had been lurking in the area turned up on my morning commute.
Woke later than I'd planned to, after a fine night of sleep. Yesterday was strangely tiring, and today promised a long hot run south. However, I was looking forward to the journey which took a different route to our outward path. Having checked out of the hotel and done a little shopping, I lugged my bags over to my now familiar coffee shop for one last quick visit. The ill-tempered barista was still struggling to get staff in to work, but remained, as ever, faultlessly polite to the customers. I realised that in the few days I've spent here over the past few years, I've grown to like Inverness very much - there is something of the outpost about it sure enough, the last bit of civilisation before the barren north - but there is also a buzz which isn't always found in comparably sized cities. Wandered thoughtfully down to the station to find our train back in platform 1 and people milling around for photographs. Managed a quick shot of my own, and also snapped the depot shunter at work.
Our route home was, like the outward journey, timed in anticipation of a slower locomotive being in the consist. This meant we were fairly early all the way, and had several welcome leg-stretch breaks. The first of these came at Aviemore, where we let a unit pass in each direction. The waiting locals and tourists seemed faintly amused to see us scattering all over the station photographing the locomotives against a Cairngorm backdrop which still had snow, which news reports had assured us could still be used for skiing, despite it being Midsummers Day! Back onto the train for a run through gloomy Druimuichdar, even this remote and unforgiving spot rendered benign by wonderful sunshine. Another break followed at Dunkeld and Birnam, before we continued via Perth and Ladybank - with an unscheduled traversal of Thornton Loop thrown in while we waited time.
Another highlight followed, as we passed over the Forth Bridge. Still very much under repair, the mighty structure still managed to impress as we sped across to reach Ediburgh for a very brief set-down before leaving eastwards and taking the Suburban Lines to double back through the southern reaches of the city to reach our route south at Craiglockhart Junction. While briefly delayed here, a few spots of rain fell - but not nearly enough to signal a change in the weather, and once we gathered speed once again into the Clyde Valley at Carstairs, we were again travelling in stunning conditions. An early arrival at Carlisle followed, with a chance to chat to the trip organisers on the platform and to offer congratulations on a weekend which had lived up to every expectation and exceeded a good few of them too! There was lots of talk of next time, and where the trip might end up - and I very much hope that circumstances allow me to be there. It was a sobering reminder that I was returning to a very uncertain world, quite removed from the idyllic West Highlands or stony and empty Far North.
The last dash south behind the stalwart locomotives which had seen well over 1000 miles of use this weekend was just as impressive as their efforts over the gradients of the north, and as I made my way to my hotel room in Wolverhampton, I watched the locomotives thunder over the viaduct back towards Birmingham. This long weekend, the centrepiece of my 'UK tour' which has seen me on railtours for the past five weeks, has been fantastic. My first proper break for a very long time, and a chance to escape to my beloved Scotland. Spitfire deserve much credit for sticking with the complicated planning process and delivering this trip. It's been an incredible few days in the Highlands.
Another very civilised start meant time for a leisurely stroll down to the station, enjoying a decent coffee and watching Inverness slowly waking up on a sleepy Sunday morning. The day was already warm, but with overcast skies - particularly to the north where we were headed. Arrived at the station to find the stock already in the platform, and took the opportunity for another snap of these workhorse locomotives as they waited to head up into the far north. Today's trip was, on paper, fairly simple - a run up to Wick, a reverse to Thurso and back to Inverness. A long haul, curving back and forth through the Highlands, with a late return to civilisation.
We set off by retracing yesterday's steps over Clacknaharry Swing Bridge and through Muir of Ord to Dingwall, before taking the far north line and turning east to follow the shore of the Cromary Firth. Swinging north again, we hugged the coast once more following the narrow band of settlements which crowd along the coastline here, through Tain and around the end of the Dornoch Firth, before taking a great loop inland and back out towards the coast. Almost doubling back on ourselves, we again found the east coast at Golspie and stayed alongside the North Sea as far as Helmsdale. Here, at the foot of the Highland Mountains, we paused. Took the opportunity to cross to the other side of the track and take some shots from the lane alongside the Network Rail yard. The wind was whipping in from the sea, and a few spots of rain had begun to fall. Great black and grey crowds rolled overhead and the sense of being somewhere very remote and far from home came over me suddenly. The village of Helmsdale is a little way from the station, so I didn't get to see the monument to those who emigrated during the Highland Clearances. Once back on board after some fine, atmospheric photographs had been taken, I accidentally initiated a bit of a discussion on the clearances too. Interestingly, as we headed inland into increasingly bleak terrain, a hush descended on the train which had been a very sociable affair until then - hopefully not as an effect of my historical ramblings.
Having visited Wick before, I made a familiar wander into town, via the local supermarket and newsagent. As a wet Sunday afternoon headed towards evening, the town was quiet and empty. Straggling groups of passengers from our train could be seen wandering around this slate grey outpost, grateful to be on terra firma after the long trek north, but just slightly bewildered by how quiet the town was. After making a 'phone call home I headed back to the station where the leading loco was noisily filling the small wooden trainshed with diesel fumes. Time for some pictures before getting back on board to await the returning passengers and head off once again. Passing through Georgemas Junction once more, we headed along the line to Thurso - the most northerly station in the British Isles, and somewhere which I'd not really explored on my last trip here. The line swung into town beside the river, and the town looked sizeable - perhaps a little bigger than Wick. Once out of the station after a few symbolic shots of our loco on the buffer stops at what is truly the end of the line, I walked into the town. With no real plan, I found myself heading down the main street and onto the short stretch of sea front. There on the shore I could see the North Sea crashing on the nearby rocks, and despite the gloom and threatening clouds there were good views of the ferry port at Scrabster and the distant shadow of Dunnet Head, the most northerly point of the mainland. A father and son who'd travelled up sat nearby on a bench, silently contemplating the end of the line with me, and I couldn't help but call to mind the Frightened Rabbit song Swim Until You Can't See Land and wonder if it was written nearby? Turning back towards Britain I noticed that the sea front here was different to the usual resorts which proudly face out towards the ocean. The view here was of back gardens, washing lines and quiet, closed windows. Thurso faces inwards, huddled against the cold and the dark seas. A walk through the town confirmed how quiet and empty the place was - though it's probably unfair to judge anywhere on a Sunday. There was, for example a little buzz of life around the Cooperative Food store, where I had a pleasant talk with the cashier about the longest day of the year. She parted with a pleasant "see you again" but I supposed there is no likelihood or reason I would? I realised the strange atmosphere of these northern climes and the symbolism of the journey all the way to the end of the line was getting to me. I bought local beer and headed back to the station through the deserted town, just as a fancy dress party spilled noisily and colourfully out of a bar and onto the street.
As expected, I had a fantastic night's sleep at The Columba. Even without a fantastic river view to wake up to like on my last visit, the hotel was a relaxing and comfortable base. Amused to note that once the foreign tourists wake up, the breakfast room still descends into chaos though! Had a quick breakfast before getting out into Inverness for a bit of exploration. The later start to proceedings today allowed for a stroll around town and a chance to relax with decent coffee whilst watching the world go by - something which has become an even more important pleasure for me as things have begun to move faster and faster in my work life. Realised that I was in fact having a proper holiday and not just a rail trip - and I was rather stunned by this. I get a lot of good-natured ribbing from people who genuinely find my activities puzzling. However, even they could, I think, define this as perhaps one of my pet-hate phrases, a mini-break. Thinking of tourists buying tartan and mispronouncing placenames, I shuddered and headed for the station.
Like last years weekend trip, the second day was given over to a spin out to Kyle of Lochalsh. Quite a few on board hadn't done the line before, and the rest of us kept a sort of conspiratorial silence about the trip for their benefit. As we curved out of the Highland side of the station, and clattered over Clacknaharry Swing Bridge, the sun appeared and the clouds dissipated leaving us under blue skies for the climb up to Raven's Rock. The customary break for a crossing train at Achnasheen was taken in bright sunshine, with people fresh to the scenery here expressing awe and amazement that the line didn't see much more promotion along the lines of the Settle and Carlisle route. Back on board, and more stunning curves and sudden vistas as we travelled towards Loch Carron and the west coast. Arrival at Kyle was, as always, a bit of a magical moment - with people realising that this station on the very edge of the sea was something of a special place. Lots of photographs taken from all sorts of vantage points and angles here, of the train on the blocks - symbolic of a journey completed.
After a break for lunch in Kyle, during which I retraced old steps and posted a card home, we returned to find a piper touting for business near the train. Took more photographs and lazed around in the sunshine watching passengers drift back. Some had made the trip over the bridge to Skye, and others had doubled-back to Plockton to see the attractive village and it's legendary pubs. Others had settled for fish and chips on the harbourside. Some complicated running around took place which readied the locomotives for the run back, and we soon set off - and then stopped. This happened several times, leaving the confused piper to guess at whether he should be playing or not. Finally the issue with the RETB system on the leading loco was resolved and we were underway only a few minutes late. Some spirited running soon made up for this, and with the sun still high in the sky as we neared Midsummer's Day, we retraced our steps to Inverness. As we approached the station, noted we hadn't crossed to the platform lines, and enjoyed an impromptu trip along the Rose Street Curve and a propelling move back into the station. With an early evening arrival, there was a chance to wander into town on the busy Saturday evening. Decided to enjoy the evening sun before disappearing into the pub.
I've had a home on the web for more years than I care to remember, and a few kind souls persuade me it's worth persisting with keeping it updated. This current incarnation of the site is centred around the blog posts which began back in 1999 as 'the daylog' and continued through my travels and tribulations during the following years.
I don't get out and about nearly as much these days, but I do try to record significant events and trips for posterity. You may also have arrived here by following the trail to my former music blog Songs Heard On Fast Trains. That content is preserved here too.