ALR06/02 Day Six - A Diverting Day in the Tyne Valley

Posted in Railways on Saturday 14th October 2006 at 9:21pm

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Didn't need to be up nearly so early this morning, but partly due to have a fairly poor night of sleep, and partly out of habit found myself up and out pretty early. My usual Renfield Street haunt wasn't open yet, so proceeded to Queen Street for coffee and had a pleasant time watching the world go by. Considered using an earlier train since the Queen Street to Waverley service has an impressive fifteen minute frequency, but decided to stick to the plan - it hadn't yet failed me this week - which was fairly amazing by all accounts! Very quiet today compared to loadings I'd seen on some of the weekday services on this route. Settled into my seat for a trip I'd not done for some time via Falkirk High and Linlithgow into Waverley. Passed several coal trains en route, which hadn't generally been evident when I'd been here before. There seems to be a general upturn in Scottish coal traffic which is very positive, although some question the resource usage in taking coal from ports north of the border to power stations further south in England.

Arrived at Waverley and brought one or two things for the trip, before heading to platform 11 for what appeared to be a very busy diverted service to Newcastle. This was really the purpose for me - an unusual route, west via Carstairs then to Carlisle on the WCML, crossing back to Newcastle via the Tyne Valley. This had been a damp, misty and slow crossing on a previous trip but today it promised to be a little quicker and a little brighter. Listened in to an angry little American guy getting upset because the station staff misheard his barked request to go to London as being for Lanark. He'd also committed the cardinal sin - wearing Scottish attire in Scotland. No one with any self-respect does this, except perhaps American tourists who think tartan sweaters make them fit in somehow? Boarded the unrefurbished HST set, which brought back memories of pre-privatisation trips to points north. Strangely, discovered wifi was available despite not being advertised, but the system refused to allocate IP addresses. Another passenger checked with me that I was having the same trouble, and we reasoned that there was something wrong for everyone - not just us. Some stunning scenery throughout the crossing of the northern Pennines, passing a fair number of diverted northbound services on our way.

185123 at Newcastle Central

Every rover there seems to be a place I end up being at fairly frequently during the week. Last time out it was Nottingham, and this time around, Newcastle has been the place. Trundled in over the Tyne and saw 185123 waiting at platform 10 - destined to be the traction for the service to Manchester. Had a quick wander around the station to see if anything interesting was going on, and got a couple of photographs of the HST and the 185 before boarding and settling in for the ride down the ECML and beyond. The train was fairly busy as far as York. For this part of the journey we had a guard who would try to over-ride the rather robotic autoannouncer voice by speaking at the same time which cancelled the announcement. She also tried hard to be friendly and personable which was appreciated by most of us, even though one or two of the passengers standing seemed none too impressed at her attempts to cheer them up. I'm not sure if Huddersfield had a home game, but after York the train became incredibly busy with several invasions into first class thwarted by the equally good-humoured guard and rather bulky trainee who took over here - how are Transpennine keeping their staff so jovial? A bit of a signalling farce near Dewsbury saw us running slowly for a while and eventually losing about six minutes by my calculations. It's testament to the 185's excellent acceleration that we arrived at Piccadilly only a minute or so late, despite there being very few opportunities to make up time around Guide Bridge and Ardwick.

At Piccadilly, time to pop into the shops on behalf of my nephew who has developed a great love for the Thomas the Tank Engine TV series. Far from letting this opportunity for railway enthusiasm indoctrination pass, grabbed a couple of DVDs which I'm sure he will enjoy. Tried to joke with the assistant that they weren't for me, but despite her smile I'm fairly sure she didn't believe me! On to the waiting Pendolino for the last leg of today's travels, to Birmingham. I'd usually have stayed with relatives nearby but the continuing weekend closure between Kings Norton and Redditch would have made life doubly difficult tomorrow - a bus in from Redditch and another bus out to Gloucester. In the spirit of my trip, found a way around this block entirely tomorrow - hugely time-consuming and not recommended for real people naturally - Birmingham Snow Hill to London Marylebone to London Paddington and home. 'Utter madness' as a gent I was talking to about my trip described it. Hadn't the heart to tell him about the time I went home from the Midlands via Leicester, St Pancras and Ramsgate!

So instead of heading for family, checked into the Britannia Hotel on New Street. A very odd place. Queued for ages to check in, as a large Welsh coach party were taking turns to ask either odd, impossible or pointless questions of the staff. Even their coach driver was doing his best to field some of the queries to ease the burden on the receptionist. The room was curious too - fronting onto a balcony overlooking New Street, and clearly not decorated for some time. Comfortable enough however, and having popped out to one of my old haunts for food, settled in for a longer sleep than I've managed this week so far.

ALR06/02 Day Five - Friday 13th at the 13th Note

Posted in Railways on Friday 13th October 2006 at 11:46pm

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Today started with an unusual occurrence on my travels - a bus journey not only planned but welcomed. I'd noted some odd bus connections in the timetable linking Hull Paragon and Barton-on-Humber, south of the river. The bus linked into a departure for Grimsby Town which was the perfect positioning move for the next bit of new track. Having had almost no problems sticking to my plan, and given it was Friday 13th, I was a little apprehensive - sometimes these buses seem not to run, or to be fairly obscure in their origin. I'd tried to get Northern Rail to commit to a location for a pick-up, and they'd offered "on Ferensway, outside Debenhams's opposite the station". Considering Ferensway is almost 50% missing at present, and that there is no Debenham's opposite the station, I didn't believe them. So I made the trip to the station early, and found a helpful staff member who directed me to Anne Street beside Kingston Communications HQ. Eventually a 350 bus to Scunthorpe via Barton Station did indeed appear, and we set off in deepening fog. By the time we got to the Humber Bridge, another reason I was curious about this service, it was clear that we'd get no view of the estuary today through the pea-souper that had developed.

Only a few minutes at Barton before a 153 arrived at the rather forlorn little platform, and we set off for Grimsby through a series of rather remote little communities, each with their own small station. Perhaps the oddest of all was Thornton Abbey where I could see no dwellings at all and no clear access to any populated area, although in fairness I couldn't see very far in the fog! I can only guess that visitors to the nearby Abbey must have justified the presence of a station here when the line was built nearly 150 years ago. The service today was well used, and a good number of us alighted at Grimsby Town. Made straight for 'The Mariners' for breakfast, a traditional station cafe on the platform. Overheard a conversation about a service being late, but as nothing untoward was showing on the screens, tried not to worry about it. It turned out that a Transpennine service was experiencing difficulties somewhere locally, and that the Central unit from Newark was behind it. Eventually, customers expressing concerns that our departure time had come and gone with no hint of information coaxed an announcement from staff that the unit would arrive soon and would depart immediately. I had no particular timing concerns as yet, but I had the slightly sickening feeling that this, perhaps the most complex day of changes, might not go to plan after all.

Soon found myself boarding the second 153 of the day and progressing as far as Wrawby Junction in really fine weather - so much so that I stowed my coat in my bag for the first time all week. Soon plunged back into the fog however, and this persisted throughout the journey via Market Rasen to Lincoln. At Market Rasen we were joined by a pair of rather gothic-looking youngsters with an impressive array of piercings. Mused on the tendency of these fairly obscure places to generate rebellion - thinking of a similarly attired young woman at Dingwall earlier in the week. It must be fairly lonely to be a rebel out here, or in the Highlands - but I can definitely see the attraction. Most of the train disembarked at Lincoln Central, and we had a slow run non-stop to Newark Northgate, halting at almost every signal. Left the train at a damp and foggy Newark, taking the opportunity to 'phone home before the next northbound service arrived.

Pleased to see the very apposite 91107 'Newark on Trent' hauling the 11:26 to Leeds, which I was to take as far as Wakefield Westgate. A nice, quiet and quick trip through a busy Doncaster and into Wakefield on time. Grabbed a coffee and waiting for the Huddersfield train, which was formed by a rather tired looking 142001. We left the station via the curve to Kirkgate before reversing and heading West. Took the southernmost line through Healey Mills, enabling me to get a look at the locos stored at the depot. Amazed, given the fairly out-of-the-way spot to find that many of the 37s were too badly grafittied to identify. The elusive stored 56s were concealed behind the line of 37s and 47s much to my frustration. Passed a few 185s on the journey into Huddersfield too, noting their increasing dominance of the Hull service as the 158s move south to First Great Western and South West Trains.

A short wait for the arrival of the stock of the Manchester Victoria service - this time an equally dilapidated 150/1 which made some fairly alarming noises as it was forced to perform on the gradients here, and sounded particularly rough through Standedge Tunnel. It's always a pleasant journey this way, and I regretted not being able to stop off at Stalybridge for a liquid lunch. After a slow approach to Victoria, headed over the bridge making an easy connection into the Kirby service. This was to provide perhaps the last bit of new track of the week (depending on diversions over the weekend) via Atherton and the curiously named Hag Fold to Wigan. I'd tried to do this a while back, but got on a different service at Wigan (thinking I was going to be clever and early) and scored the route via Westhoughton instead. Dozed slightly as we meandered west, stopping at all shacks along the way. Noted a couple of stations appeared to be island platforms with fairly impressive canopies. Seems to be worth looking into the history of these routes at some point, along with the Merseyside lines which still fascinate me.

I seem to have spent a fair bit of time waiting at Wigan over the past year, as I've tried to mop up all the routes in the North West. Had an hour this time, and tried in vain to find somewhere pleasant to eat and drink. No more success than on previous occasions, so gave up and headed for the station very early. This rewarded me with the sight of 47501 and 47802 storming through on a short rake of tanks. Why is my camera never out at the right times? 390041 crawled in a little early, and it took a while to find a seat on this very well patronised train. Sat back and enjoyed First Class service Pendolino style. Some nice touches and much better than the Voyager offering, but it lacks some of the charm of GNER's rather more classic approach for want of a better term. The Pendolino is not the greatest stock for sight-seeing either, with its tiny 'porthole' windows preventing really panoramic views as we stormed north over Shap and Beattock. Arrival in Glasgow was, as always, a fine experience. Noted that the Clyde Bridges have been lit in a variety of different ways to enhance the night-time view along the river. It was very good to be back.

Immediately set out for a wander and inevitably several pints at the 13th Note. As a member of staff there declared, I am after all a creature of habit. Tried Tennent's new brand 'Versa' too, which was fairly good from a non-lager drinker's viewpoint. Not so gassy and a little stronger - which can only be good things. Feeling sleepy, decided on a wander back west through Merchant City to Central Station. Could happily have stayed for several more days, even if the bit of the Central Hotel I was camped in this time was on the even spookier fifth floor! I'd be mad to bail out now though - strangely, so far my plans were working out - even today, which should by rights have been unlucky.

ALR06/02 Day Four - Eastern Promises Kept

Posted in Railways on Thursday 12th October 2006 at 10:10pm

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Had an excellent night of sleep in Newcastle, and was loathe to get up and started on the day's itinerary. I reminded myself that the journey was the whole point of my trip, and reluctantly readied myself for an early start. Down to the station - only really a few steps away from my room at the Royal Station Hotel - in time for the 07:00 departure to Kings Cross, but decided to grab a quick breakfast and stick to my original plan of the 07:18 which stopped only at York. Found a seat and settled in to answer email, check any disruptions to my planned route, and catch up with some websites I try to monitor. A very quick run in the misty morning sunlight, arriving at the 'Cross a little before time. Despite being in the first coach, to the confusion of the staff, I wandered back the length of the train to have a look at the locomotive and see what was stabled near the old York Road part of the station. Down into the tube, which was unseasonably warm and sweaty. Waited a few minutes for a train to Liverpool Street, and was surprised to come face to face with Tony Benn, former parliamentarian and still perhaps the sharpest politician we have. He was plodding steadily out of the station, with the badge of an unidentified organisation attached to his red tie, and a thick tweed suit despite the pleasant weather. It was difficult not to admire a man who confronts the tube as the adventure it can undoubtedly become, trousers tucked into socks and ready for the worst!

My own short adventure to Liverpool Street went smoothly, and I had time to shop a little and enjoy a quiet cup of coffee before heading for my Lowestoft train. This was again, an act of pure vengeance. A couple of trips back I'd planned this for my first day, but things went wrong almost from the outset. This time, things seemed to be working out altogether better. The train left on time, and I had the First Class compartment to myself for much of the journey. We ground to a halt at Kelvedon however, and I noted a lot of orange jackets around. Cold sweat time - I had about 17 minutes at Lowestoft and we left around 20 down crawling by the emergency work site at a snail's pace. An hour stuck out on the coast could seriously delay my plans. Lots of nailbiting and calculating. Although there was catch up time at Ipswich, we were held outside awaiting a platform and lost all of it. There were odd minutes we could snatch on the way to Lowestoft, but it looked fairly grim. Despite enjoying the journey through rather picturesque East Suffolk countryside, found myself worrying about the onward journey.

It turned out I need not have been concerned. As we rolled into Lowestoft, with a few minutes made up and a bit of a sprint ahead of me, the guard announced that this train would now form the 14:50 to Norwich! Somewhat mistrusting my luck, I checked and he confirmed. I silently cursed him for not telling us earlier, along with many people who'd joined the train to make the same connection I suspect. I sat right back down and waited just a couple of minutes for our turnaround. After an uneventful journey over a series of interesting swing bridges across the broads, arrived on time in Norwich with this stretch of new track marked off at last. Not much time for self-congratulation however as I needed to take a Central Trains service to Peterborough next, and that meant hogging the doors of the unit until the guard arrived, just to ensure I got a seat. True to form, the guard appeared about 45 seconds before departure time, and after a bit of a scramble, I found myself a suitable spot to doze my way across the fens to Peterborough, right next to someone almost the same size as me - which is a fairly unlikely occurrence. Now I try hard to politely avoid intruding into others space if only to disprove the stereotype of obesity meaning ignorance. However, it's not so easy when two of you are trying to do the same. Otherwise, not much happens out here in the rather dull flat landscape. A strange highlight near Whittlesea though, where I spotted the curious sight of a man walking a single brown cow and appearing to stop and talk to it. I'm sure there was a rational explanation, but I began to wonder if I hadn't perhaps been on the train too long at this point? Having said that, this is where they annually make an effort to beat up people dressed as straw bears!

Glad to escape the packed unit at Peterborough. I try to avoid these Central services which are woefully inadequate for the journeys they make, but there was no escape from this one. A delight to settle into a good old fashioned HST on the 18:01 to Hull then - with excellent service, plenty of space, wifi and the opportunity to drop the window and listen to the roar of the engine through Doncaster, after which it went very dark indeed outside. Arrived a little early in Hull's impressive Paragon station - currently undergoing a facelift along with much of Ferensway and Paragon Square it seems - and made straight for the hotel, right on the platform. Noted that just like in last night's hotel, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert had stayed here too. I'm beginning to feel like some sort of stalker of long-dead Royals - or perhaps in some strange time-bending twist, it's them stalking me? Like I said - I've been on the train for far too long.

Queued for far too long behind a strange foreign gent with a curious habit of listening intently to the receptionist, then repeating back her words with just one small but crucial detail misunderstood. He was leading a party of thirty or so souls, and I can only wonder about how they actually got to there destination! There was also a convention of Special Educational Needs staff at the hotel, and they appeared to be donning their glad rags and raising hell in the bar. Couldn't cope with drunk, militant educationalists tonight, so slunk out into the city centre. Not much had changed in the few months since I was last here. It's a fairly drab corner of the North East, but there are clear signs of regeneration and rebirth. Strolled around much of the central area, and felt fairly safe despite an individual who gleaned a great deal of pleasure from shouting "Mad Bastard!" at everyone he passed. He was generous enough to include me in this. Hull doesn't change quickly, but it's getting there.

ALR06/02 Day Three - Way Out West

Posted in Railways on Wednesday 11th October 2006 at 10:26pm

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This morning I faced the earliest start of the week. Dragging myself out of the warm hotel room into the damp, dark streets of Aberdeen was not easy. Hit by a distinctly wintery nip in the Northern air too on my way to the station. The place was almost deserted, but noted the unit which was to work to Inverness was ticking over at the North end of platform 6. Took the opportunity to wander around a bit and figure out how the station works, as I've not really been here long enough to puzzle it out in the past. Soon on our way on the 06:25 to Inverness. Managed to snooze a little while it was dark, did notice both the Royal Scotsman with 57601 at the helm and the DRS operated Rail Head Treatment Train (that's dealing with leaves on the line, for the uninitiated!) at Keith.

Only a short time at Inverness to find breakfast and get to the Kyle train. Noted that the service was heavily reserved, mainly for a couple of coach parties. Found a seat in the declassified First Class area and settled in for the journey to the coast. The first part of the trip followed the same route as the Far North Line, but after calling at the surprisingly busy Dingwall, we took a sharp curve to the left and began an ascent into the hills. More incredible scenery - trying to describe it here would do it very little justice in fact, and its rare I'm stuck for words on this usually excessively verbose blog! Consistently surprised by the well-kept and maintained stations along the route - even the smallest single-platform halt seemed to be tidy, in excellent repair and inviting. With both coach parties on board, the rather busy train made its way slowly Westwards.

Descending towards the coast, the settlements become a little larger, and a fair number of passengers seemed to join or alight at Strathcarron, Stromeferry and Plockton. I particularly loved this stretch of line, which still seemed to be the typical rural community railway which we all imagine. Soon arrived at Kyle, and immediately its well tended station, museum and tea room were packed with tourists and ferry passengers.

A flurry of activity around 158704 at Kyle of Lochalsh

Interesting to note that the independece of the Highland Railway is preserved here - from the plaque commemorating Kyle's centenary to the stag emblem on Kyle of Lochalsh Signal Box. There also seems to be a pride in customer service and timekeeping which doesn't exist south of Platform 2 at Inverness! Took some pictures of the Skye Bridge and of our train. Purchased some postcards and a booklet about the line to make my contribution to the Friends of the Kyle Line group, and reboarded for the trip back.

This part of the journey had the potential to go very wrong - an eleven minute connection into the Edinburgh service at Inverness, and a certain knowledge that the staff at the station had little regard for interchange between the Highland Line and the main line south gained by bitter experience. We crossed another train as planned at Strathcarron with little delay, and made up a couple of minutes caused by long station stops with no problem. Arrived on time and made the dash over to the Edinburgh train which was already filling up. No seats in the back end of First Class so headed for the front. Soon realised that the ex-Hull Trains 170s have been stripped of all but seven seats of First Class. With no time to go hunting for a seat, found myself standing in a vestibule as far as Perth - not a high point of the trip. Didn't miss much in terms of a view however, as the mist descended and the rain started to fall around Carrbridge - a damp dark and gloomy evening to match my mood perhaps?

After writing the above I discovered the following snippet of verse which reminded me that while my minor irritations on this route were nothing compared to those who tackled the formidable Drumochter Pass on foot or horseback, there has always been a miserable aspect to the place:

Mi gabhail Straith Dhruim Uachdair,
'S beag m'aighear anns an uair so:
Tha an latha air dol gu gruamachd
S'chan e tha buain mo sproc.

(As I travel the Strath of Drumochter,
Little my joy at this season:
the day has turned out grimly
and that does not help my gloom.)

John Macdonald c1620-c1710, from "A Lament for the State of the Country"

Finally arrived at Waverley, which was still in the grip of it's rush hour. Made some quick purchases and found a seat on the very quiet 18:10 to Newcastle. A really relaxing and pleasant end to a long and tiring day. The trip to Kyle of Lochalsh was incredible - and worth the effort, but I can only dream of what it would have been like with a real locomotive!