London

Posted in London on Saturday 18th September 2004 at 9:08pm


The first day of London Open House. The majority of people seemed to be heading for perhaps larger attractions than I - certainly there were huge queues at The Bank of England and 30 St. Mary Axe. Overall, it was really good to see the crowds wandering the streets of the City at a weekend.

I had only very loosely planned what I wanted to see, and set off early for a guided tour of The Old Sessions House at Clerkenwell. This building is now the London Masonic Centre, and has been rescued from obscurity and decay by the efforts of many lodges which meet here. Whilst much refurbished, the previous use of the building remains apparent in the barred windows, vaulted cell areas (now a bar) and the frighteningly small 'punishment cell' now rather an overcrowded linen cupboard. Also talk of a tunnel underground to the House of Detention, which is worth further investigation.

On to Mercer's Hall. There were a variety of Livery Halls open for the weekend, but this one only for today. As Mercers are first in the Order of Precedence, it seemed fitting to visit this one before any others. A most impressive place, managing to reflect the grandeur of centuries within a relatively recent building.

Next, to Guildhall. Everytime I try to visit this building, it is in use and closed to the public. Once again, the Crypt was out of bounds, but the Great Hall was stately and impressive. Spent some time wandering and soaking up the atmosphere. Chatted to the attendant for some time about Gog and Magog and their history. He claimed to converse more with them than with his wife!

Gog...
Gog...


...and Magog
and Magog

From here, I zigzagged across the City via a variety of churches. Starting close by with the calm, austere St. Lawrence Jewry - used by the Corporation for religious services, then Hawksmoor's sinister St. Mary Woolnoth where the Pegasus Choir added to the overbearing and oppressive atmosphere. Next onto St. Stephen Walbrook, the Lord Mayor's parish church. Absolutely breathtaking interior too with a soaring dome (a prototype for St. Pauls) and Henry Moore's simple but fitting marble 'cheese' altar. My pictures of the interior do it no justice, but I got the altar pretty well, showing its scale.

Henry Moore altar at St. Stephen Walbrook
Henry Moore altar at St. Stephen Walbrook

Sadly, St. Andrew Undershaft and St. Helen's were closed, but also got to visit St. Olave Hart Street where Pepys and his wife have memorials. A curious little church, not at all as forbidding as its fearsome gateway would imply!

One of the highlights of the weekend for me was a chance to visit 19 Princelet Street. Having read so much about this strange, quiet but important little Huguenot silk merchant's house in Spitalfields I was thrilled to finally get to see it. Sadly, the building is in terrible repair, and prevented from more regular opening by its state. The plan is to raise £3 million to open the house as a full time Museum of Immigration and Diversity. A fitting purpose. The strange mix of the small, simple living areas and the open space of the backroom Synagogue was disorienting. Sadly, the rooms above (including Rodinsky's attic room) were not accessible due to the condition of the building.

My final destination for the day was just around the corner at Christ Church Spitalfields - Hawksmoor's masterpiece. The church is slowly being restored to a condition near to original, after well-meant but destructive attempts to alter the church - particularly during the 19th century. Inside, it is vast and simple - full of light and space. Pleased to see lots of what seemed to be locals visiting too, since they would be more familiar with the crypt being used as a somewhat notorious treatment centre for alcoholics! Staff and helpers all incredibly knowledgable and friendly too.

Christ Church from Brushfield Street
Christ Church, from Brushfield Street

Rested afterwards, and had coffee on the steps of Christ Church. Watched the people and traffic on Commercial Road and noted how different the atmosphere was here despite the proximity of the City, just at the other end of Brushfield Street.

Back to Bloomsbury, very tired and footsore. Hobbled out for an average but expensive Indian meal and a few pints sitting outside The Swan, effectively my local when I'm here.

 


Lost::MikeGTN

I've had a home on the web for more years than I care to remember, and a few kind souls persuade me it's worth persisting with keeping it updated. This current incarnation of the site is centred around the blog posts which began back in 1999 as 'the daylog' and continued through my travels and tribulations during the following years.

I don't get out and about nearly as much these days, but I do try to record significant events and trips for posterity. You may also have arrived here by following the trail to my former music blog Songs Heard On Fast Trains. That content is preserved here too.

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