Day two's proposition was to head out West, before recrossing Scotland and ending up on the East coast. Despite a fairly leisurely start to the day, set off early in order to have coffee in my favourite spot on Renfield Street - lots of memories here, where I began to over-mythologise things a bit as ever. A quick walk to Queen Street soon shook off the melancholy which had descended, and there was time to watch the morning rush hour as I waited for the stock of the 08:20 to Oban and Mallaig to arrive. A second 156 duly joined one already standing at the platform - front coaches for Oban and rear for Mallaig. Found a seat and settled in for the long journey into the West Highlands. Much of the route remembered from last year's Fort William trip, but interesting to see how much money is being spent to keep the SPT stations in good condition and repair - it seems to work too, because people are clearly using the trains. At Helensburgh we turned North and began to climb steeply, skirting Loch Gare and Loch Lomond and heading deeper into the Highlands.
After crossing an up train at Ardlui, and negotiating a points problem at the north of the station with the help of both train crews (and rather strangely a couple of passengers) we were a little late. At Crianlarich the units parted and we set off first, bearing west through Tyndrum Lower and on to the Oban line while the other unit took the high road towards Fort William. Immediately struck by the vast and open landscapes. Much of the route runs through a shallow valley, with impressive mountains and hills as its backdrop, sometimes only half-glimpsed through the mist. An equally stunning but very different view from that seen from the other branch of the West Highland Line. Sometimes it was hard to discover what was a mountain and what was a cloud formation. As we negotiated the torturous route, the cloud cover began to break and the sun began to shine. By the time we began the long curve through the town and towards the station at Oban it was a pleasant Autumn morning.
Took the opportunity to get a picture, and then to explore this curious little town. There seemed to still be a fairly busy tourist contingent, despite the late time of the year. Considering the desolation I'd travelled through to get here, I was surprised just what a thriving little port this was. Found an excellent local bakery and purchased lunch, then wandered along the harbour back to the station for the long ride back into Glasgow Queen Street, pausing to watch one of the ferries leave. Once again a fairly good run, with a short wait and a chance for a leg-stretch at Crianlarich whilst we waited for the Mallaig unit to arrive and join our train. Still a fine afternoon, but a little chilly out on the platform. I'd given up hope of much in the way of railway interest on the return journey, but I was surprised by the sudden and noisy passing of 37405 on a pair of wagons, near Summerston. On arrival at Queen Street had some time to kill before the Aberdeen train. Took the opportunity for coffee and a wander around to loosen up legs stiff from sitting for a long time. It was beginning to get dark and I realised that much of my journey to Aberdeen would be in the pitch black, just like last time.
Once in Aberdeen I remembered how miserable it was arriving here in the dark and wet. It's a strange place, somehow confusing and oddly pieced-together, and it seems to have suffered something of a decline since my last stay almost a decade ago. A walk up to Union Street took me past a fair few grim public houses, several where the Police and Ambulance staff were already in attendance. There was also a vague but omnipresent whiff of the sewers which wasn't here last time as far as I recall. Couldn't remember exactly where I'd eaten before so didn't try to find out if it still existed. Remembered it being full of wealthy oil men. Finally discovered a little Indian restaurant called 'Nawaabi' down an otherwise unpromising side street. Excellent meal, good service and some very original food. Not cheap, but I was so hungry by this point it wasn't my biggest concern. Not tempted by any of the local hostelries on the way back to my hotel, despite fancying a nice pint. I'm not sure how I feel about Aberdeen - sometimes it seems vibrant and interesting, and others grey and dull. Perhaps I need to spend some daylight hours here to decide.
Lost::MikeGTN
I've had a home on the web for more years than I care to remember, and a few kind souls persuade me it's worth persisting with keeping it updated. This current incarnation of the site is centred around the blog posts which began back in 1999 as 'the daylog' and continued through my travels and tribulations during the following years.
I don't get out and about nearly as much these days, but I do try to record significant events and trips for posterity. You may also have arrived here by following the trail to my former music blog Songs Heard On Fast Trains. That content is preserved here too.
