Its become a tradition that around this time of year, the bulk of the bulk appeals out of the way, I will head for a conference. Each year I feel somewhat intellectually dwarfed by my co-delegates, and to some extent I question if I should be there. But every year so far I've come away with the conviction that even a slow-moving autodidact like me has a place at these events.
So once again the Literary London conference was revealing, reassuring and enlightening. Firstly, its always a relief to be among people who regard London with the same mixture of interest, awe and curiosity as I do. Also, its amazing to hear how people are reading the city. Finally, I've once again come away with a much expanded reading list - fuel for another year. The truly multidisciplinary mix of literature, history and topography produces some unusual but entertaining results - Professor Stanley Wells' paper on 'Thomas Dekker - Londoner' being one of those moments where things come together in the most unexpected of ways.
It was always going to be strange, being so close to London and discussing its representation in literature so soon after the events of recent weeks - especially so when considering the mythologising of the blitz and suchlike. The scorching streets of Kingston and Surbiton seemed, of course, very far away from any sort of threat. Despite some concerns about its potential for interest, the conference theme of 'The Suburbs' made for some of the most interesting material. Professor Elizabeth Wilson's opening plenary 'The Painted Backdrop of the Suburb' set the tone for discussion of the suburb as a contested, creative space, challenging our usual view. Other views on the theme included a fascinating look at the history of the uniquely British semi-detached house, and a suprising account of T S Eliot's contribution to the effort to ensure new suburbs had Anglican churches.
Once again found myself most comfortable in the 'London in the 1930s' panel. Papers on George Orwell, Patrick Hamilton and John Betjeman were all thoroughly interesting - and added to my understanding of a decade which my work on William Kent is opening up to me. I was also looking forward immensely to the final plenary - Julian Wolfreys on 'The Tortured Geography of the Night World'. I confess much of it bewildered and confused me at first. I set about making copious notes, and now I think I grasp Professor Wolfreys ideas better. A strange and haunting set of ideas on which to end the conference.
Left the campus in blazing sunshine, found much needed coffee and caught the train to sleepy Shepperton, home of J G Ballard. Pottered around aimlessly for a while, mulling over the conference before heading back to Surbiton for beer and food.
Woken early by the sun, which gave me a little time to finish packing a bag. Set out at 0930 and had a quiet ride up to London reading Dining on Stones in a near feverish fashion. Things ground to a halt somewhere near Airport Junction, and despite being informed it was down to a track circuit failure people began to get jumpy. Lots of clipped mobile calls and return trips to the buffet with telltale glasses of ice in one hand and an anonymous paper bag in the other. Arrived at a slightly subdued but startlingly hot Paddington and made for the bus stop.
With the section of tube I wanted out of action, whimsical routes were out. As escalators are a personal taboo it was down to a No. 36 bus to Vauxhall. Despite concerns, it all went smoothly. Parked myself near the back doors, getting a good blast of cool air at each stop. Noted that people were reluctant to use the upper deck - which I put down to the power of mass-media images. North onto the teeming Edgware Road and then towards Marble Arch. Along Park Lane, around three brick walled sides of Buckingham Palace and through the chaos of Victoria before heading for Vauxhall Bridge. A brief wait at Vauxhall, watching shiny new rolling stock pass by.
Arrived at Surbiton and spent some time admiring the station building before moving on. Had committed the walk along Victoria Road and towards the Thames to memory. A pleasant small-town feel to the suburb, busy and prosperous. A swing towards the river, and less salubrious environs took me to Seething Wells, my home until Sunday. I'm not sure what this place was: the remaining original buildings point to either places of worship or waterworks - the filter beds beside the river perhaps suggesting the later. Now it is a complex of anonymous yellow student flats - found mine and settled in. Not luxury by any means, but clean and safe flats with en suite facilities but curiously poor mobile telephone reception. Unpacked before heading back to the Surbiton Flyer for a well-earned pint or two of Fullers' Discovery. Struck up a talk with a local who was pleasant and talkative, but it turned out it was my discarded newspaper she was mostly interested in. Settled instead to planning my route to the Penrhyn Road campus of Kingston University. I think, if the weather remains so seasonable, that I will set out early when it's cooler and walk to the campus taking breakfast on the way.
How can people not understand that this is my holiday?
Came up to London yesterday morning having failed miserably to obtain cheap tickets from Great Western for this morning. Checked into the Cosmo, after waiting a while for a member of staff to show up. Glad to see its still the same, no frills establishment which I've grown to love. No real plans so took a gentle walk to Euston and spent the afternoon at Willesden Junction watching trains before heading back to the Swan for a couple of pints, then an early night.
Up early, but similar problems finding a member of staff to check me out of the hotel! Customary breakfast on Southampton Row, and a meandering trip out to Liverpool Street via Kings Cross. As with the previous LAMAS walk, had problems identifying fellow members. Eventually we began to assemble, with the notable exception of the leader of the walk, who arrived a little late and breathless!
The proposed walk was a little longer than I'd expected, but I plunged in with high hopes of being able to complete the whole course before dashing off to my parents house prior to tomorrows' trip to North Wales. Set out wandering into Spitalfields, to examine the Norman Foster scheme which has to some extent changed the skyline around Christ Church. From here, via a series of smaller back streets and some impressive 18th century shopfronts to Bevis Marks. Some negotiation from our party leader, a security check and some temporary headgear gained us access to the Spanish and Portugese Synagogue which is hidden from view behind other properties. An amazing building, not dissimilar to a contemporary Wren church. Amusing and friendly warden gave us a long and fascinating talk about the history and day to day workings of the building, including stories of some of its previous worshippers.
Next a number of city churches including rarely open St Katherine Cree, St Helen's with its curious double nave, noble St Stephen Walbrook and good old St Mary Woolnoth which unnerved some of our party with its unusual design and strangely square internal proportions! Explored Leadenhall Market and its environs before slipping into alleyways once occupied by Coffee Shops and Inns. At many points we considered how the Swiss Re 'gherkin' has altered the skyline and created some unusual new views. A fair point was made about the strange circular footprint in a square plot. Some sadness too that the frontage of the old Baltic Exchange had not been preseved to maintain the largely Edwardian street scene.
Unfortunately, at this point I realised that a long break for food during a busy city Friday lunchtime would mean the walk had some hours to run. Disappointed to have to call it a day here before getting to some of my city highlights, but glad to have been able to visit some unusual spots today. Good to spend some time in some old haunts too.
Despite planning on attending today for some time, the hectic nature of the past couple of weeks left me unprepared. Having missed the opportunity of cheap tickets to Paddington, decided to travel to Waterloo via Salisbury. A pleasant and novel, if slightly longer journey. Arrived exactly on time, and used 'the drain' to get to Bank with time for coffee before wandering up Lime Street to St. Andrew Undershaft. Whilst planning my route, thought how Stow may well have been the last chronicler of the City who could really 'know' its entire extent.
Firstly it was unusual and something of a bonus to get inside this small church, which is now used primarily as a bible study centre by St Helens Bishopsgate. I was one of the first arrivals, and was content to watch as the Merchant Taylors and other members of LAMAS arrived. The service started at noon with the procession of the Master, aldermen, churchwardens and verger. The highlight of course was the ceremony where the Master replaces the quill on Stow's monument, an event recorded as an established annual occurrence as far back as 1828. Quite amazing to see this curious little bit of City tradition enacted once again, 400 years after Stow's death.
The service concluded with a brief speech by Dr Julia Merritt on Stow's posthumous reputation. She spoke particularly on Strype's revision and expansion of Stow's survey and compared this with the 'rewriting' of Peter Ackroyd today. After a very brief walk through crowds of lunching Lloyds employees, headed back to Waterloo and caught an earlier train than planned. Didn't much fancy a rush hour, and having given so little thought to today beforehand I was concerned I'd wander aimlessly and pointlessly. An interesting day and a pleasant trip. Honoured to have seen today's ceremonies at last.
Lost::MikeGTN
I've had a home on the web for more years than I care to remember, and a few kind souls persuade me it's worth persisting with keeping it updated. This current incarnation of the site is centred around the blog posts which began back in 1999 as 'the daylog' and continued through my travels and tribulations during the following years.
I don't get out and about nearly as much these days, but I do try to record significant events and trips for posterity. You may also have arrived here by following the trail to my former music blog Songs Heard On Fast Trains. That content is preserved here too.
